西行日志第六十一日六十二日六十三日

美丽的黄皮肤爱心援助工程 http://weifang.dzwww.com/cj/201711/t20171123_16264512.htm
《西行日志》双语稿内容较多,为了不影响“没事er“原创内容阅读,每次更新最新的《西行日志》双语版都会将之前的双语版日志删除,如果有想留存的朋友请随时下载留存,特此提醒多谢!.8.5第六十一日晴今日里程:42.22公里;累总里程:.01公里

今日行程:茶卡镇–高恩托布辛–脑木托乌珠尔

明日预计:脑木托乌珠尔–乌兰县–兴化村约37公里

JourneytotheWest-Day61

.8.5,Sunny

Translatedby:TonyZhang,LingjingLuoandYujiaLiu

Today’sdistance:42.22km,totaldistance:2,.79km

Todaysroute:ChakaTown-KoenTobsing-NaomuTowuzhuer

Tomorrowsplannedroute:NaomuTowuzhuer-Wulantown,about37km

昨天跑完去茶卡天空之镜溜达,耽误了好几个小时,直接导致所有的安排都后延。等办完一天所有该办的事儿,睡觉已经快十一点,于是将闹钟又往后延了一些。今早起跑都已经六点多钟,天开始蒙蒙亮,心里有些惭愧,貌似这是我出发以来起的最晚的一天。

Afterrunning,yesterdaysotherarrangementshadtobedelayedbecauseIspentseveralhoursvisitingtheChaka"SkyRealm."Afteralltheerrands,itwasalmost11pmwhenIwenttobed.SoIsetthealarmabitlaterthanusual.Theskyjuststartedtobrightenat6amwhenIbeganrunning.IfeltalittleashamedsincethisisprobablythelatesttimeIvesetoffsinceIleftBeijing.

头晕的问题没有了,血氧也正常,早晨的温度也明显高于昨日。这一切似乎都预示着迎接我的应该是生产力高涨的一天。可很多时候,身体状态这个东西和爱情一样,让人捉摸不透。有心栽花花不开,无心插柳柳成荫。今天我拼命想要跑起来,可是脚跟灌了铅一样,就是懒得动弹。得,那咱跑走结合还不行吗?

Theheadacheisgone,mybloodoxygenlevelremainsnormal,andtodaysmorningtemperatureissignificantlyhigherthanyesterdays.Allthesesignsseemtobeshowingthattodayshouldbeveryproductive.Butitoftenfeelsliketheconditionofonesbodybehavesasmysteriouslyasdoesloveorromanceloveitself.AstheoldChinesesaying:Aheartfullyplantedflowerstillmightnotgrow.Still,atreebranchattachedunintentionallymightsprungaforest.NomatterhowmuchIwishedtopickupthepace,mylegstodayweresoheavyasiftheywerefilledwithlead.Sobeit.Illjustwalkintermittently.

出了茶卡镇,四周又变成了原生态的半荒漠半湿地景象。和昨天去茶卡沿途景观明显不同,今日的灌木要密集的多。仔细研究了一下,植被变得茂盛还是因为有水。茶卡四周群山环绕,冬天的时候应该都是白雪皑皑。这些雪山上流下来的水汇聚成河,流向茶卡盐湖这个低洼地带。河水水量在夏季虽然较少,总比没有强。生命之源自然就带来了旺盛的生机。

DepartingthetownofChaka,theenvironmentreturnedtoamoreprimalscenerywithamixtureofdryandwetlands.Duetomoreabundantwaterresources,thevegetationhereseemslusherthanthosealongtherouteleadingintoChaka.Chakaissurroundedbymountainsonallsides.Asthewintersnowmelts,streamsflowfromthemountainrangesdownintoChakasSaltLakebasin.Althoughthewaterlevelislowinthesummer,itisstillsufficienttosupportthelocalvegetation.

在国道边,远远看到一群被围栏拦住的牲畜。跑近才发现是上百只双峰骆驼。这是个骆驼圈。此次西行,第一次遇到骆驼,可把我激动坏了。正忙着吹口哨,做鬼脸,试图让屁股对着我的骆驼们转个身合个影,只听一声呼哨,骆驼们的主人打开了围栏,骆驼们群情激昂,一涌而出。穿过旁边的国道,往广袤的“牧场”奔去,还真有点儿“千骑卷平冈”的气势。如今为了生态保护和可持续放牧,牧场都已经被严格管理了。牲畜在大西北的容积率可是不高,能近距离见到这一幕,还真幸运。

FromtheNationalHighway,Isawmassiveherdsoffencedlivestockfromafarinthedistance.AsIapproached,IrecognizedtheseareafewhundredBactriancamels.ThisisthefirsttimeonthiswestwardjourneythatIsawcamels.Iexcitedlytriedtowhistleandmakefacestomakethecamelsturnaroundforaphoto.Butwhatreallygrabbedtheirattentionwasalongwhistlefromthecamelkeeperasheopenedthefence.ThecamelsenergeticallyrushedacrossHighwaytothegrazinggroundsontheotherside.Thesceneexhibitsasimilarsenseofmightinessasthousandsofriderschargingintobattle.Becausemanygrazinggroundsareunderstrictregulationstoensureecologicalsustainability,livestockheregenerallydonothaveapervasivepresence.Iamfortunatetohavewitnessedsuchascene.

国道一个大拐弯后,开始进山了。地势渐渐升高,四周变成了典型的山地地貌。因为决定在去格尔木之前绕行德令哈,多看看大美青海,我需要翻越这片山脉,借省道去乌兰县,指向西北。这片山脉应该是昆仑山支脉旺尕秀山的支脉,那真是渺无人烟。省道上跑个好半天才能看到一辆车。

AfteranenormousturnonNationalHighway,theroadleadsintomoremountainousregionswithaclimbingelevation.BecauseIdecidedtomakeadetourtoDelinghabeforeenteringGolmud,toexperiencethenaturalbeautyofQinghai,IhavetogetthroughthesemountainstoarriveatWulantownonthenorthwestviaprovincialhighway.ThesemountainsbelongtotheWanggaxiusubrangeoftheKunlunMountainrange.Itistrulyasecludedarea,withbarelyanycarsrunningonthehighway.

离开茶卡后,没有遇到一个像样的村子。偶尔看到的要么是一户两户孤零零的人家,要么是孑然一身的蒙古包。跑跑走走,总觉该下山了,可是一山还有一山高,山坡后面总有爬升。等看到经幡和玛尼堆才终于松了口气。藏民一般认为山口,山头,水边是有灵性的地方,神灵经常会经过,所以在此放置经幡。看到经幡和玛尼堆,一般就是到了山顶或者山口啦。看看手表,好家伙,海拔也有米了。

EversinceIleftChaka,therehavenotbeenanypropervillages.Atmost,thereweresettlementsforonlyoneortwofamiliesoralonelyyurt.Walkingintermittently,IhopedthatImfinallyleavingthemountains.Butastheviewclearsaftereveryclimb,itfeelslikethereisalwaysahighermountainahead.Tibetansoftenconsidermountainentrances,peaks,andregionsofwatertobespirituallocations.ItwasnotuntilIsawprayerflagsandMarnyistonesthatIcouldfinallyrelaxsinceitusuallysignifiesanexit.Althoughtheexitshouldhavealowerelevationlocally,tomysurprise,mywatchstillshowsanelevationof3,m(~11,ft).

一辆私家车忽然毫无征兆的在我身边减慢速度,一位少数民族大哥探出头来,问我是不是徒步的。正跑的呼哧带喘的我心说有徒步的这么跑吗?大哥真是个好人,让我上车,要带我一程,还说他今天已经载了一位徒步小哥了。据说小哥正对人生感到迷茫,跑来青藏徒步,在这荒凉之地又累又渴,被这位少数民族大哥捡起。我可不是迷途羔羊,郑重谢过人家的好意,还没来得及合影留念,他就一溜烟儿开走了,还真是来去如风。

Suddenly,acarpulledoverbesideme.AmanofethnicminorityreachedoutandaskedmeifIwashiking.AsIwaspantingforcefully,Ithought:haveyoueverseenahikerrunlikethis?Thismanisverygenerousandofferedmearide.Hetoldmethathealreadyprovidedaridetoanotheryoungman,whofeltlostinlifeandwenthikinginQinghaiandTibetbutendedupthirstyandtiredlikealostsheep.ButIamnotlost.AfterIformallythankedhimforhiskindness,heleftbeforeIcouldaskforaphoto.Gonelikethewind.

省道周围出现了很多低矮的土坯墙,有的沿着山势连绵,有的沿着省道。这一带好像也没有长城,这些土墙也确实太低矮了些。在网上搜索了半天,查不出任何信息。在



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